By: Ema Nova
Yves Saint Laurent's background and early career played a crucial role in shaping his trajectory as a legendary fashion designer. Born Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent on August 1, 1936, in Oran, Algeria, which was a French colony at the time. His family had colonial French roots, and his father, Charles Mathieu-Saint-Laurent, was a wealthy insurance executive. Yves's mother, Lucienne Andrée Mathieu-Saint-Laurent, was known for her strong-willed and dominant personality. Yves's family provided him with a comfortable upbringing, and his mother's influence on his early interests in fashion and art was significant. His family's financial status allowed him to pursue his passion for design and creativity.
Yves Saint Laurent's journey into the world of fashion began at an early age. He started drawing and designing clothing for his paper dolls as a child. Recognizing his talent, his mother encouraged him to pursue formal art and fashion training. At the age of 17, Yves left Algeria and moved to Paris to pursue his dream of becoming a fashion designer. He enrolled in the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, where he honed his skills under the guidance of Michel de Brunhoff, the editor of French Vogue. During his time there, he won a prestigious design competition that caught the attention of Christian Dior.
In 1957, tragedy struck the fashion world with the sudden death of Christian Dior. Yves Saint Laurent, only 21 years old at the time, was appointed as the head designer of the House of Dior. He became the youngest person ever to head a major Parisian fashion house. Yves Saint Laurent's debut collection for Dior, known as the "Trapeze" collection, was well-received by critics and marked the beginning of his creative impact on the brand. His innovative designs brought a fresh perspective to the house, and his youthful energy resonated with the changing times. His time at Dior was marked by a transition in fashion, as the restrictive styles of the 1950s began to give way to more liberated and modern designs. His "A-line" dresses and designs that emphasized movement were emblematic of this shift.
However, Yves Saint Laurent's tenure at Dior was short-lived. In 1960, he was drafted into the French army for his mandatory military service, which led to his departure from the house. During his absence, the Dior design team struggled to keep up with the changing fashion landscape, which contributed to his eventual exit. Yves's early association with Dior provided him with a platform to showcase his talent, and his departure from the house marked the beginning of his independent and influential career as a designer.
After his departure from Dior, Yves Saint Laurent faced legal battles regarding his contract with the house. With the support of his partner Pierre Bergé, Yves founded his own fashion house, Yves Saint Laurent, in 1961. This marked a turning point in his career, allowing him the creative freedom to shape his own vision and create designs that would define his legacy. Yves Saint Laurent's innovative creations, including the Mondrian Collection and the iconic tuxedo jacket for women ("Le Smoking"), This innovative piece challenged gender norms and became a symbol of empowered femininity.
At the time, women wearing trousers was still considered unconventional and even controversial. Yves Saint Laurent's "Le Smoking" challenged traditional notions of eveningwear, offering an alternative to the traditional cocktail dress or gown. The tuxedo suit blurred the lines between masculine and feminine attire, highlighting a new level of sophistication and androgynous elegance. When "Le Smoking" was first introduced, it sparked a mix of excitement and skepticism. Some fashion critics embraced the innovation and audacity of the design, while others criticized it for being too provocative and unconventional.
Nevertheless, the impact of "Le Smoking" was undeniable, and it garnered significant attention from both the fashion world and the public. The introduction of "Le Smoking" marked a turning point in fashion history. It reflected the changing social and cultural landscape of the 1960s, where notions of gender roles and identity were being challenged. The tuxedo suit became a symbol of empowerment, confidence, and breaking free from traditional constraints. Over the years, "Le Smoking" became synonymous with Yves Saint Laurent's signature style and the brand's commitment to pushing boundaries. The suit was worn by influential women, including French actress Catherine Deneuve, who famously sported a "Le Smoking" suit in a series of iconic photographs by Helmut Newton.
Yves Saint Laurent was known for featuring models of diverse ethnic backgrounds and sizes in his runway shows, challenging the traditional beauty ideals of the time. Yves Saint Laurent had a close and impactful relationship with several iconic models who became synonymous with his brand and his vision of fashion. These models not only showcased his designs but also contributed to shaping the image and aesthetic of Yves Saint Laurent. Some of the iconic models he loved working with include actress Catherine Deneuve, Betty Catroux, Mounia, model and actress Laetitia Casta, Veruschka, and the iconic Iman.
Before the 1960s, the fashion industry was largely centered around haute couture, which involved custom-made garments for wealthy clients. Haute couture was expensive, exclusive, and time-consuming. Yves Saint Laurent, along with other designers and industry figures, recognized the need for a more accessible and efficient approach to fashion. In 1966, Yves Saint Laurent introduced his groundbreaking Rive Gauche collection. This collection marked a departure from the traditional haute couture model. It consisted of ready-to-wear garments that were designed, produced, and sold in standard sizes, making them available to a wider range of customers. Yves Saint Laurent's introduction of prêt-à-porter had a lasting cultural impact. It played a role in changing the way people thought about fashion, emphasizing individual style and self-expression rather than conforming to a narrow definition of beauty. Ready-to-wear fashion allows people to express their personalities through clothing in a more accessible way.
Yves Saint Laurent's Mondrian Collection, introduced in 1965, is one of the most iconic and memorable moments in the history of fashion. Inspired by the works of Dutch painter Piet Mondrian, this collection showcased Yves Saint Laurent's innovative approach to merging art and fashion. Piet Mondrian was a pioneer of abstract art, known for his use of geometric shapes and primary colors in his paintings. His compositions, often featuring grids and bold lines, had a distinctive visual language that Yves Saint Laurent found intriguing. Yves Saint Laurent's Mondrian Collection was presented in 1965 as part of his Fall/Winter runway show. The collection featured garments that directly referenced Mondrian's artwork. Dresses, coats, and even accessories were designed to resemble the bold geometric patterns and primary colors found in Mondrian's paintings. The Mondrian Collection incorporated clean lines, squares, rectangles, and blocks of primary colors—blue, red, yellow, and white. These geometric elements were meticulously arranged to mirror the abstract compositions found in Mondrian's art. Yves Saint Laurent's Mondrian Collection was groundbreaking because it brought fine art into the realm of fashion. The designs transformed clothing into wearable works of art. This fusion of art and fashion was unprecedented and challenged the conventional boundaries of both disciplines.
Yves Saint Laurent retired from design in 2002. He passed away in 2008. His legacy continues through the Yves Saint Laurent brand and the influence he had on contemporary fashion.
In 2017, the Musée Yves Saint Laurent was opened in Paris to honor his legacy. The museum was established to honor the memory of Yves Saint Laurent and showcase his extensive body of work, including his iconic designs, sketches, accessories, and more. The museum is a testament to Yves Saint Laurent's work and passion for fashion.
See you soon, with love...
Milênia!
Comments