By: Ema Nova
Dema knows how to make a show-stopper, and ever since the scandal involving Balenciaga, he has proven multiple times the type of designer he aspires to be. Therefore, focusing completing on his craft instead of creating headlines. Throughout the collection it's noticeable that Demna's old designs disappeared instead he is focused on creating beautiful silhouettes.
The show opened with a replica black velvet Balenciaga dress worn by Grace Kelly with a pearl necklace for her 40th birthday.
The show continued with fifty-eight other looks each better than the other. It's undeniable that Deman is a great designer, he has outdone himself and created a very high standard for Balenciaga couture. In fact, the collection seemed very basic at first sight but, the hidden secret was in the details. Techniques, such as Trompe L'oeil elevated the collection. Demna presented a couple of designs that possess the technique to therefore create an illusion of real denim, but it was really an oil-painted canvas.
Thrompe L'oiel is French and it literally means "Optical Illusion" It's used to describe a style of painting that uses shading and perspective to make a two-dimensional painting appear to be truly three-dimensional—at least for a few moments.
There was quite a lot of menswear pieces including black tie, business suit, and even "casual" looks but none of them were simple. Besides the thrompe l'oiel, Demna created a few coats and other pieces of clothes that appeared to be moving even when the models were standing still. Personally, those were the most interesting designs to look at and to have a feel of what we can still expect from Demna. As if that was not enough, a few of the gowns were made with 800 ribbons.
To end the collection Demna wanted to highlight how clothes make him feel protected, he told Vogue that the armor dress is a representation of how he views fashion and how "making clothes is my armor".
The dress was made with a 3D-printed chrome armor that according to Demna himself, it was inspired by Joan of Arc. I believe the design was unexpected and fun but most important it carried a message because most of us use clothes as armor. Clothes can be interpreted as either protective armor or a fighting one, and that was the concept I believe Demna was trying to explore.
See you soon, with love...
Milênia!
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